Sometimes you have to wonder about the nature of toll roads. Frustratingly, this ice cream cone cost me an extra $1.50 by being one exit after the toll booths. As part of a slightly greater trip to New Hampshire, it was a perfect way to kick off a fun night with a Graham Chocolate Crunch cone.
In 1986, Alan Golick and Lisa Thompson took over a soft-serve location that had been operated for years as Princess Dairy, and expanded the menu and created the original Golick’s Dairy Bar. With a stand too small to make their own ice cream, they sought out local manufacturers to provide the best assortment of flavors. For their hard pack ice cream, their supplier is Blake’s in Manchester, the same place that services the nearby UNH Dairy Bar. Golick’s has since expanded and has a second location in Barrington as well.
The stand is located in the midst of a wide parking lot, with a few picnic tables off to either side. It’s right next to the seafood restaurant the Weathervane, and I watched in horror as parents who seemed like villains in a Roald Dahl book marched their kids from the front door right into the minivan without even acknowledging the protestations of the kids who likely only agreed to seafood because of the nearby prospect of a cone.
The road sign illuminated the facts that were evident by the night’s crisp air: it was fall and their special flavors fell right in line. Pumpkin and Apple Crisp ice creams were both on the menu for this last month that Golick’s is open (they close Columbus Day weekend). I tried the apple crisp, but it is a flavor that does best when the crisp is crispy and fresh, and my sample seemed like merely apple ice cream.
What I chose was the Graham Chocolate Crunch, or Graham Central Station as it goes by elsewhere. The graham based ice cream had a rich and full flavor with a heavy cream feel that was leavened by the inclusion of chocolate covered graham crunchies. In the fall ice creams can take on odd characteristics, and this had the strange ability to seem soft and warm on the outside and yet the inside of each scoop may have been the coldest ice cream I’ve had all Summer. It just meant I had to approach it slowly, and in the time just after dusk, there were no rays of sun to battle with. This just had such a weird weird balance to it, I needed to lick furiously, but if I bit I felt as though my teeth might freeze and shatter.
Ice cream in belly, I hopped back in the car and made my way to Portsmouth with a bag of old CDs to trade in at Bull Moose so that I could get the new Big Star box set as midnight struck. The extra credit that I received there more than made up for the toll fees that increased the price of this cone fifty percent.
Cone – kids $2.50 small $3 medium $3.50 large $4
Sundae – regular $3.75 large $4.50
Frappe – regular $4.25 large $4.75
Golick’s Dairy Bar
Open April-Columbus Day